Perhaps there is no dish in the Southwest France more iconic, cherished, and controversial than the cassoulet. Cassoulet was originally a food of peasants — a simple assemblage of what ingredients were available: white beans with pork, sausage, duck confit, gizzards, cooked together for a long time.
The first cassoulet is claimed by the city of Castelnaudary, which was under siege by the British during the Hundred Years War. The beleaguered townspeople gathered up the ingredients they could find and made a large stew to nourish and bolster their defenders. The meal was so hearty and fortifying that the soldiers handily dispelled the invaders, saving the city from occupation. But the origin of cassoulet is probably the result of more global interactions than the Castelnaudary legend would suggest.
Since its composition is based on availability, cassoulet varies from town to town in Southwest France. In Castelnaudary, cassoulet is prepared with duck confit, pork shoulder and sausage. In Carcassonne, a cassoulet will typically have mutton, and the Toulouse version has duck confit, Toulouse sausage, and is breaded on top. In Auch, only duck or goose meat is used, and crumbs are never added on top. And each town believes they make the one true cassoulet.
Even the type of bean is a point of debate. In the southern areas, it must be the Coco, or Tarbais bean, a large and somewhat flat white bean that grows at the foot of the Pyrénées Mountains. A little further north they use flageolet beans. But everyone agrees that, come spring, the last and best cassoulet of the season is made with freshly picked fava beans.
The sanctity of cassoulet is taken so seriously in France that there is a brotherhood — the Grande Confrérie du Cassoulet — that defends the glory and quality of cassoulet in Castelnaudary, in part by conducting surprise taste tests of the cassoulets offered by local chefs. And there is an Academie Universelle du Cassoulet, whose members promote the cassoulet and its significant cultural heritage (they even have a theme song).
New York City chefs face off in D'Artagnan's Second Annual Cassoulet War
Now, you don't have to fly to France for a world-class cassoulet. Instead, just head over to The Standard High Line Biergarten and Garden Rooms in New York City, where 15 of the city's finest chefs will carry on a competitive tradition by creating their version of this iconic dish from Southwest France — one of the top three favorite dishes of the French population.
D'Artagnan's Second Annual Cassoulet War, taking place on Thursday, September 24th, celebrates the iconic seasonal dish. Consumers will have the opportunity to sample each chef's version of cassoulet, while judges will hand out top honors, including "Audience Favorite,""Most Authentic," and "Most Daring." The true winner here, however, is Action Against Hunger– all proceeds from the event will go to this non-profit organization.
Recognized as a world leader in the fight against malnutrition, Action Against Hunger has pursued its vision of a world without hunger for over three decades, combating hunger in emergency situations of conflict, natural disaster, and chronic food insecurity. With more than 6,500 staff in over 45 countries, their innovative programs in nutrition, food security & livelihoods, and water, sanitation, and hygiene reach more than thirteen million people each year, restoring self-sufficiency to vulnerable populations throughout the world.
The participating chefs include:
Chef Angela Dos Santos (Favela)
Chef Cedric Tovar (Claudette)
Chef Christine Nunn (Picnic in the Square)
Chef Daniel Eddy (Rebelle)
Chef Harold Moore (Commerce)
Chef JJ Johnson (Cecil and Minton's Harlem)
Chef Jordi Valles (Le District)
Chef Justin Smillie (Upland)
Chef Michael Faure (O’Cabanon)
Chef Pascal Escriout (Tournesol)
Chef Philippe Bertineau (Benoit)
Chef Pierre Landet (Felix)
Chef Ron Rosselli (The Standard Grill)
Chef Shane McBride (Cherche Midi)
Chef Suzanne Cupps (Untitled at the Whitney)
Participating judges include:
Chef Sara Moulton (host of Sara’s Weeknight Meals on PBS)
Chef Andre Daguin (Hotel de France)
Chef Jean-Pierre Xiradakis (La Tupina)
Francis Staub (founder of Staub cookware)
Jean-Michel Cazes (Château Lynch-Bages)
Tickets: $75
www.eventbrite.com/e/2nd-annual-dartagnan-cassoulet-war-tickets-17832740206
Sponsored by D’Artagnan, Staub, Baron Francois, and Bragard.